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599 code pages · read from the maker's own base

The letter and the number are two halves of one address.

A Whirlpool display alternates: it shows you F#, then E#, then F# again. Half a code is not an address, which is why so many people arrive holding one. This archive is organized the way the maker's own base is — one page per code per appliance — because F3E1 is a water pressure reading on a washer, an exhaust thermistor on a dryer and an oven temperature sensor on a range.

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  • 599 code pages published here
  • 1,108 code pages in the maker's own base
  • 176 of them on wall ovens alone
  • 0 on top-freezer refrigerators

All of them

The full index

Filter by appliance first, because on this platform the appliance is part of the answer. The same characters are a different report on a washer, a dryer and a range, and typing both halves of the code finds the page faster than typing one.

Every entry here was read from Whirlpool's own US support base, harvested under the crawl delay it asks for, and the archive is in this repository. What is the maker's is quoted as the maker's and marked: the code strings, which appliance shows each one, and the sentence the maker publishes about it. What is ours is the reading around that sentence, the order of the steps, and the judgement about what it usually turns out to be in a South Florida house. Where the maker publishes a code and no mechanism behind it, the page says so instead of inventing one.

Why the display keeps changing

F# then E#, in the same window

The maker’s own dryer documentation says it in one sentence: if a code beginning with F appears in the display, alternating between F# and E#, the control has detected a problem. It is not two codes and it is not a problem with the panel. It is one address printed in two halves, because the display is not wide enough to hold it. The practical consequence is the commonest mistake we hear on the phone: somebody looks, writes down F7, and does not know that the E-half was on the glass two seconds later. Watch it for ten seconds, photograph both, and you have something a technician can act on.

Read the whole address
The black glass face of a control panel filling the whole frame, unlit, carrying only a soft reflection of a window.

One page per code per appliance

The same characters, three different repairs

This platform is shared across a whole corporation, and the same code appears in several rooms meaning different things. F3E1 is a water pressure reading on a washer, an exhaust thermistor on a dryer and an oven temperature sensor on a range. LF is a long fill on a washer and a lint filter that has been taken out on a heat pump dryer. F4E1 is a thermistor on a microwave and the heater on a dryer. An archive that published one page per code would have to choose one of those and be wrong about the rest, so this one publishes a page per code per appliance and names the appliance in the title.

Filter by appliance
A row of three small unlit indicator lamps on a dark panel that is otherwise featureless.

Before you cut the power

Two minutes that save a visit

Both halves of the code

  • Watch the display for a few seconds before writing anything down. A Whirlpool alternates between the two halves of its code, and half a code is not an address.
  • Photograph it twice, once on each half. Nobody remembers which came first, and the order is worth having.
  • Say which appliance it is on. The same characters are a different report on a washer, a dryer and a range, and they are different pages here.
  • Do not cut the power first. The display clears and the condition does not, and the code is the most useful thing a first visit can start from.

The model number, off the appliance

  • Refrigerators: on the inside wall of the fresh food compartment, usually near the crisper.
  • Top-load washers: under the lid. Front-load washers and dryers: in the door opening, or on the back panel.
  • Ranges: on the frame behind the storage drawer, or on the oven door frame.
  • Dishwashers: on the edge of the door, visible only when it is open.

No code?

Start from what it is doing

On the cold side of this make there is usually nothing to look up. These pages start from the behavior instead.

  • "An open front-loading washing machine door with wet clothes sitting in a drum still holding water, a towel on the floor in front of it, the small pump filter access panel" — a drum still full at the end of a cycle, and the filter panel this page sends the owner to, both in one frame
    The cycle stopped and the drum is still full of water

    Washer will not drain

    This is the one Whirlpool machine that tells you exactly what is wrong before anybody opens it. The washer times its own drain, and when the water has not gone in the time the cycle allowed, it stops and puts a name on the display. Read that name before you bail the drum out, because it is the difference between a coin in the pump and a control problem.

    • Whirlpool's own label for a slow drain is a long drain, and it shows as Ld, F9 E1 or drn
    • A drum still full at the end of a cycle is a pump or a hose question first, never a board question first
    • The filter behind the lower access panel on a front-load machine is emptied over a towel, and there will be more water in it than anybody expects
    What it usually means
  • "A basket of soaking wet laundry lifted out of a front-load washing machine, water darkening the tile beneath it" — the cycle finishes and the load comes out soaked, which is this page's caption
    The cycle finishes and the load comes out soaked

    Washer will not spin

    A load that comes out heavy and dripping has either not been spun or has been spun at a speed the machine chose for itself. Whirlpool machines lower the spin speed on their own when they cannot balance the drum, which is why a bath mat washed alone is the single commonest cause of this call, and the one that costs nothing.

    • uL and oL are the machine telling you about the load, not about itself
    • A top-load HE washer with no agitator balances by sensing weight, and one heavy item defeats it
    • F7 E1 is a motor speed problem, and it is the point where the visit stops being free advice
    What it usually means
  • A front-loading washing machine still running late at night in a laundry closet behind open bifold doors, a small load turning slowly behind the glass door, the control panel a dim unreadable glow.
    Forty minutes on the display, three hours on the clock

    Washer cycle takes hours to finish

    A Whirlpool washer does not run a fixed cycle. It measures, and it adds time whenever a measurement is not where it should be. So a cycle that keeps growing is the machine telling you it is repeating something — extra rinses to clear foam, extra fill attempts, extra drain attempts — and each of those has its own name in the maker's own table.

    • The time on the display is an estimate the machine revises, not a countdown
    • Sud is the most common reason a wash doubles in length, and the cause is usually the detergent
    • A slow fill and a slow drain both add time before either shows a code
    What it usually means
  • A white top-load washing machine with its lid raised on a load of laundry lying loose and completely dry around a tall finned CENTER AGITATOR POST, not a drop of water anywhere in the tub, the console lamps lit and the cycle plainly running.
    The cycle starts, the drum stays empty

    Washer will not fill, or fills too slowly

    Whirlpool washers watch the water arriving and stop when it does not. The machine gives this one three different labels depending on how old it is and which control it has — LF, Lo FL and F8 E1 are one finding under three names, and the maker's own wording is that the washer is taking too long to fill or is not detecting the right amount of water coming in.

    • LF, Lo FL and F8 E1 are the same condition, spelled three ways
    • HC and F3 E2 mean the hot and cold hoses are on the wrong way around, which happens on every move
    • The problem is on the wall more often than in the washer
    What it usually means
  • "Two hands turning out the rubber door boot seal of a front-load washing machine, showing the fold inside with grit and dark residue in it" — the fold is where the smell lives, and the frame is two hands and a gasket rather than a room
    The laundry comes out of a clean machine smelling worse than it went in

    Washer smells musty

    This is the most South Florida call on this whole site. A front-load washer holds a small amount of water in the door seal and the drain path by design, and nine humid months a year keeps a closed laundry closet at a temperature and a humidity where that water grows something. The machine is not broken. It is being asked to dry out in a room that never does.

    • The odor lives in the door gasket and the dispenser, not in the drum
    • A washer in a closed laundry closet in August never dries out between loads
    • Whirlpool publishes a Clean Washer cycle and a CL reminder for exactly this
    What it usually means
  • A white top-load washing machine part-way through a spin in a laundry closet at night, shifted forward out of the clean rectangle its feet had worn into the vinyl floor, one front foot lifted clear of the floor and the cabinet leaning on the other three, a plastic laundry basket knocked over beside it.
    The whole laundry closet shakes at the end of every cycle

    Washer walks across the floor or bangs on spin

    A washer that moves is telling you something specific: the drum is spinning a load it cannot balance, on a cabinet that is not sitting square. Whirlpool publishes three separate pages on vibration for a reason — it is a common report, and the first two causes are things anybody can check with their hands.

    • Leveling comes first, and a washer over a tile floor moves out of level on its own
    • A machine that bangs on every spin will eventually destroy its own suspension
    • Shipping bolts left in a new front-loader produce a noise nobody forgets
    What it usually means
  • "Damp washing out of a finished cycle. Mean 79" — everything out warm and still damp, which is this page's caption in as many words
    Everything comes out warm and still damp

    Dryer takes two cycles to dry one load

    This is the most common dryer call we take, and Whirlpool has a code for it that is unusually blunt. AF, printed on some machines as Check Vent, is restricted air flow, and the maker's own wording names a clogged lint screen or vent. A dryer does not dry clothes with heat. It dries them by moving hot air through them and taking the moisture out of the room.

    • AF and Check Vent are the same code, and F4 E3 is the numbered version of it
    • A dryer venting into a closet has nowhere to put the moisture it removes
    • Long flexible ducting behind a machine pushed back into an alcove crushes flat
    What it usually means
All 28 symptoms

Not every code is a problem

Four of these mean the machine is working

LOC on a range is the control lock, cleared by holding START/ENTER for five seconds. Lock on a cooktop is the same feature, cleared by holding LOCK for three. Sud on a washer means it has found too many suds to spin against, so it is adding water and extending the rinse by itself — the maker documents that as normal behavior. And PF means the cycle was interrupted by a power failure, which this county supplies free of charge several times a summer. All four get called in as breakdowns, which is why they have pages of their own here.

Call (305) 363-7702 Describe it in the form

Before you call

Questions about codes

The code is not on this list.

Tell us exactly what it says, both halves, with any space between them, and which appliance it is on. This maker runs several control generations and a code can be printed slightly differently between them. If it is genuinely one we have not published, we would rather find that out than guess at it.

Should I reset the machine?

Record it first. Resetting takes the code off the glass and leaves whatever caused it exactly where it was, and that code is the best thing a first visit can begin with. After that, yes — the maker's own first step for a great many of these is to cut power at the breaker for one minute and restore it. A code that clears and stays clear was a condition; one that returns has a part behind it.

My refrigerator has no codes at all. Is that normal?

On this make, yes, and it is the single most surprising thing about it. There are no code pages published for a top-freezer cabinet or an upright freezer, and nine in total for a side-by-side. What these cabinets use instead is indicator lights — cooling off, door alarm, air filter, H2O — and those are worth reporting when you call. Everything else on the cold side is measured rather than read.

Why does the same code have several pages here?

Because it has several meanings. This control platform is shared across a whole corporation and across every room of the house, and one code number can belong to a water pressure sensor in the laundry and a temperature sensor at the range. One page per code per appliance is how the maker's own base is organized, and it is the only arrangement that does not make three quarters of the readers wrong.

In more detail

How this archive is organized

Per code, per appliance

The maker’s own base publishes a separate page for the same code in each room it appears in, and this archive follows it, because the alternative is a single page that is right about a washer and wrong about a range. Every page here names its appliance in the title, so a search that includes the machine lands on the page that answers it.

What is the maker’s and what is ours

The code strings, the appliance each belongs to and the sentence the maker publishes about it are facts, checkable against the maker’s own support library, and they are quoted and marked as quotations. The reading around them, the order of the steps and the judgement about what a code usually turns out to be in a house on this coast are ours. We do not publish a code the maker has not, and where the maker publishes a number with no mechanism behind it we print that fact rather than a plausible invention.

Where this make says nothing

1,108 code pages are live in the maker’s base and they are unevenly spread: 176 on wall ovens, 170 on ranges, 88 on the laundry tower, 83 on electric cooktops, 70 on top-load washers — against 24 on French door refrigerators, nine on side-by-side, and none at all on top-freezer refrigerators, upright freezers or gas cooktops. A branch of 224 built-in microwave pages is still listed in the maker’s own sitemap and every URL under it answers 404; it was measured by request rather than assumed, and nothing on this site cites it.

Quote both halves of the code, and name the appliance.

With those and the model number we can usually name a likely part before anybody sets off. Watch the display alternate before you write it down.

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This article is based on:

  • Official manufacturer documentation
  • Internal repair procedures
  • Technician repair history
  • Company quality standards
Call (305) 363-7702