--- title: "Gas burner will not light" description: "Whirlpool gas burner will not light — whirlpool's gas cooktop branch is the one place in its whole support base where there is not a single code page." url: "https://whirlpoolmiami.support/symptoms/gas-burner-will-not-light/" date_modified: "2026-09-06" Appliance type: "Cooktops, Ranges" --- # Whirlpool gas burner will not light ### Take the burner apart and look at it Lift the grate off, take the cap off the burner and lift the burner head out. Look at the small holes around the rim — if they are blocked with cooked-on spill, the flame cannot travel around the ring and the burner lights on one side or not at all. Wash the head in hot soapy water, clear the holes with a pin rather than anything that will widen them, dry everything completely and put it back so the cap sits flat and square. A cap sitting a millimeter proud is enough to stop a burner lighting, and it is the single most common cause we find. ### What it usually means, by the kind of machine Whirlpool sells one appliance in several forms — a top-loader with an agitator and one without, a front-loader, a stacked pair, a laundry tower and an all-in-one; a vented dryer, a ventless one and a heat pump — and the same behavior points at different things on each of them. A top-load washer has no drain pump filter to open and a front-loader does, which is the whole first hour of the same complaint on two machines. - **Gas cooktop** — Standalone in a countertop, with the igniters and the valves underneath. Spills go straight down onto the ignition hardware, which is why cleaning is half of this job. - **Gas range** — Same burners on top of an oven. If every burner and the oven are dead at once, the question is the gas supply rather than the cooktop. - **LP converted** — Whirlpool publishes separate pages for cooktops converted to LP, and a conversion done without the right orifices gives weak, noisy or yellow flames rather than no flame. ### Saying plainly what the maker does not publish It matters that we tell you this rather than dress the page up with codes borrowed from a different appliance. Whirlpool’s gas cooktops publish no error codes at all — there is nothing in the maker’s base to look up, and any page that offers you a gas burner code table has invented it. What the maker does publish for this branch is a series of pages about flames: too high, too low, wrong color, noisy, on natural gas and on converted LP. That is the actual diagnostic language for a gas burner, and it is read with your eyes. ### Salt air and coastal kitchens The spark electrodes on a gas cooktop are exposed metal in a kitchen. Within a few blocks of the water, and in any home that is closed up for months at a time, we see corrosion on those electrodes and on the connections under the cooktop that simply does not appear inland. If you are on the coast and one burner has become unreliable in the last season, that is the first place we look. A burner cap out of position The most common cause and completely free. It has to sit flat, square and fully seated for the spark to reach the gas. Blocked burner ports Spill baked into the holes around the ring. The burner lights partly, or lights and goes out. A wet or dirty igniter After a boil-over or a wipe-down, the ceramic electrode holds moisture and sparks weakly. Left overnight to dry, it often comes back. The igniter or the spark module One burner that never sparks while the others do is the electrode. All of them clicking constantly is usually the module or a switch. The gas supply Every burner dead at once, or weak flames everywhere, points upstream of the cooktop. On propane, check the tank before anything else. Try lighting it with a match, carefully If it lights and burns steadily with a match, the gas and the burner are fine and the problem is ignition only. Check whether other burners spark One dead burner is that burner. All of them clicking is the module or a switch stuck closed. Look at the flame color on the ones that work Blue with a small yellow tip is right. Lazy yellow flames across the cooktop belong in a different conversation about gas type and air. Make sure everything is bone dry In this climate, parts washed in the evening are still damp in the morning. Damp ignition hardware does not spark properly. It clicks and clicks and nothing happens What it usually means Zero code pages in Whirlpool's entire gas cooktop branch — this diagnosis is visual A burner cap seated a fraction out of place stops ignition completely Clicking with no flame and no clicking at all are two different repairs Take the burner apart and look at it Lift the grate off, take the cap off the burner and lift the burner head out. Look at the small holes around the rim — if they are blocked with cooked-on spill, the flame cannot travel around the ring and the burner lights on one side or not at all. Wash the head in hot soapy water, clear the holes with a pin rather than anything that will widen them, dry everything completely and put it back so the cap sits flat and square. A cap sitting a millimeter proud is enough to stop a burner lighting, and it is the single most common cause we find. What it usually means, by the kind of machine Whirlpool sells one appliance in several forms — a top-loader with an agitator and one without, a front-loader, a stacked pair, a laundry tower and an all-in-one; a vented dryer, a ventless one and a heat pump — and the same behavior points at different things on each of them. A top-load washer has no drain pump filter to open and a front-loader does, which is the whole first hour of the same complaint on two machines. Gas cooktop — Standalone in a countertop, with the igniters and the valves underneath. Spills go straight down onto the ignition hardware, which is why cleaning is half of this job. Gas range — Same burners on top of an oven. If every burner and the oven are dead at once, the question is the gas supply rather than the cooktop. LP converted — Whirlpool publishes separate pages for cooktops converted to LP, and a conversion done without the right orifices gives weak, noisy or yellow flames rather than no flame. Saying plainly what the maker does not publish It matters that we tell you this rather than dress the page up with codes borrowed from a different appliance. Whirlpool’s gas cooktops publish no error codes at all — there is nothing in the maker’s base to look up, and any page that offers you a gas burner code table has invented it. What the maker does publish for this branch is a series of pages about flames: too high, too low, wrong color, noisy, on natural gas and on converted LP. That is the actual diagnostic language for a gas burner, and it is read with your eyes. Salt air and coastal kitchens The spark electrodes on a gas cooktop are exposed metal in a kitchen. Within a few blocks of the water, and in any home that is closed up for months at a time, we see corrosion on those electrodes and on the connections under the cooktop that simply does not appear inland. If you are on the coast and one burner has become unreliable in the last season, that is the first place we look. ### It lights eventually if I keep trying. That is a weak spark or a partly blocked burner rather than a healthy cooktop. It is worth cleaning the head and drying the igniter first, because that fixes a good share of them without a visit. ### All the burners click constantly, even with the knobs off. Turn the cooktop off at the breaker and book it. Continuous sparking is usually a switch that has been reached by a spill, and leaving it clicking is not something to live with. --- **[Read full article: Gas burner will not light](https://whirlpoolmiami.support/symptoms/gas-burner-will-not-light/)**